There’s a version of Thailand that doesn’t make it onto Instagram. No infinity pools full of influencers, no overpriced cocktails at famous beach clubs, no queues at the “hidden” waterfall that 10,000 people visited last week. And that place is Koh Chang, Thailand.
Koh Chang is that version of Thailand — and it somehow still feels like a secret.
I spent a week here with my partner, staying at one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever seen, eating street food for 150 baht a plate, renting a scooter and driving the whole island in an afternoon. Total daily spend including accommodation? Comfortable. Not cheap, but nowhere near what the same experience would cost in Europe.
Here’s everything you need to know.
Getting There From Bangkok
There’s no airport on Koh Chang, which is partly why it stays quieter than Phuket or Samui. You get there by bus and ferry — and it’s easier than it sounds.
From Bangkok’s Ekkamai Bus Terminal, buses run to Trat and take around 6 hours, with tickets costing around 250–300 THB. From Trat, a shared songthaew takes you to Ao Thammachat pier for around 50–80 THB, and the ferry crossing to Koh Chang costs 80 THB and takes 30 minutes. The Government 999 bus goes directly to the pier, skipping the songthaew step entirely — worth looking for if you want to simplify things.
Total cost Bangkok to Koh Chang: under 500 THB per person. That’s less than 15 CHF.
Where We Stayed: Santhiya Tree Koh Chang
I’ll be honest — we almost didn’t book the Santhiya. At 100 CHF a night it felt like a splurge, and we told ourselves we’d stay three nights maximum.
We stayed the whole week.
The Santhiya Tree is one of the most characterful luxury resorts on Koh Chang — a teak-and-tropical dream tucked between a river and the sea, with private pools in most rooms and a peaceful private beach. The architecture is entirely Thai — carved wood, open-air bathrooms, hammocks in the jungle. It feels like somewhere that was designed by someone who actually loves Thailand, not a hotel group that’s trying to look like they do.
Our room had a private plunge pool overlooking the mountains and a small river. We had breakfast on our terrace every morning. The beach directly in front of the hotel was completely deserted — wide, soft sand, no vendors, no noise. Just us.
A few things that stood out:
The spa. Massages start at 800 THB — expensive by Thai standards, but a fraction of what you’d pay in Switzerland for the same quality. We went twice.
The cooking class. The hotel offers a private cooking class with five dishes. We learned to make tom kha, pad thai, green curry, mango sticky rice and one more I’ve already forgotten but definitely ate three portions of. Worth every baht.
The staff. Genuinely some of the warmest service I’ve experienced anywhere. The 24-hour WhatsApp service means any request gets answered immediately — we used it constantly.
Is it the cheapest hotel on the island? No. Is it exceptional value for what it delivers? Absolutely. For many guests, it hits the sweet spot between special and still just about affordable.
Food: What We Actually Ate and What It Cost
Outside the hotel, we ate for about 150 THB per person per meal — that’s around 4 CHF. And it was some of the best food of the trip.
Right next to the Santhiya there’s a small street food market that doesn’t show up on Google Maps. You’d walk straight past it if you weren’t looking. Go at dinner time, point at things, eat everything. Pad thai, grilled skewers, fresh fruit — all under 200 THB total.
For something with more atmosphere, we found a bar called Drifters Anchors — up in the mountains, completely unexpected, one of those places you stumble into and stay for three hours. Cold Chang beer, views over the jungle, the kind of spot that makes you feel like you found something real.
Getting Around: Rent a Scooter
Koh Chang has one main road that loops around the island. Rent a scooter for around 200–300 THB a day and you can see the whole island in an afternoon.
The villages along the west coast each have their own feel — some quiet and local, some with a handful of beach bars and restaurants. We stopped everywhere. We also spotted wild monkeys on the roadside, which I was not prepared for and absolutely loved.
If you want to go beyond the beaches, don’t miss The Drifter’s Anchor — a hidden mountain bar that’s unlike anything else on the island.
A few notes on the scooter: the road has some steep sections, especially in the north. Take it slow, wear a helmet, and don’t attempt it if you’ve never ridden one before. The roads are good but it’s still a jungle island.
Is Koh Chang Worth It?
For Europeans used to paying European prices, Koh Chang is quietly extraordinary.
You can stay in a genuinely beautiful hotel, eat well three times a day, get a massage, rent a scooter and explore — and spend less per day than a mediocre city break in Germany. The beaches are quiet, the jungle is real, and the island hasn’t been swallowed by mass tourism yet.
Go before it changes.
Quick Info
- Getting there: Bus from Ekkamai (Bangkok) + ferry from Ao Thammachat. Total under 500 THB per person.
- Where we stayed: Santhiya Tree Koh Chang Resort — from around 3,000 THB/night. Book direct or via Booking.com.
- Food budget: 150 THB per person per meal at street food stalls near the hotel.
- Getting around: Scooter rental 200–300 THB/day.
- Best time to visit: November to February for clear skies and calm seas.